The story of Kraków is a book of light and shadow, where the glorious Middle Ages and Renaissance chapters contrast with the darker pages written in the 20th century.

Witness Kraków’s golden age, when the city was the capital of Poland, in the huge Market Square (Rynek), with its arcaded cloth market, town hall tower and domed Church of St Adalbert. Next door, St Mary’s Basilica has two bell towers of intriguingly unequal
height.

Overlooking the Vistula River, Wawel Royal Castle houses a museum, divided into five sections, that recalls the opulence of the former kingdom – if you’re short on time, prioritise the Royal Apartments and the Exhibition of Oriental Art.

The 1939 invasion of Poland by Nazi Germany put an end to Kraków’s heyday. A ghetto for the city’s Jews was created in the Podgórze district and the castle was totally destroyed, while 60 kilometres away, more than a million people were killed in Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp. Guided tours bring home the scale of the tragedy that took place there. Round off your visit by crossing the Vistula to stroll the wide avenues of Nowa Huta, a working-class suburb that was the model of social realism during the Communist era.

Jewish history in Kazimierz

South of Kraków’s Old Town, the Jewish quarter of Kazimierz is brimming with flea markets and cafes. Take a walk through the streets and discover the baroque interior of the Temple Synagogue or the painted ceiling of the Remuh Synagogue. Wander the paths of the ‘new’ Jewish cemetery between moss-grown graves before buying a zapiekanka (a sandwich filled with cheese and vegetables) on Nowy Square. In the evening, mingle with locals in neighbourhood bars such as Eszeweria and Propaganda.

Into the mines of Wieliczka

Just 12 kilometres from Kraków, the Wieliczka Salt Mine hides an unreal spectacle within its walls. Open since the Middle Ages, the mine has more than 300 kilometres of tunnels.

Venture down to a depth of 135 metres to gaze at chambers and chandeliers sculpted from salt, underground lakes rippling to the tunes of Chopin, and a series of chapels – the Chapel of St Kinga, 54 metres long and 12 metres high, is made entirely of salt from floor to ceiling, and from the altar to the candelabra. Book a visit here.

Stroll through Planty Park

Surrounding the Old Town where the city’s ramparts once stood is Planty Park, an excellent place for a walk around the historic city. Visit the surviving remains of the defences: St Florian’s Gate and the Barbican, a mediaeval fortress.

The factory in Krakow where Oscar Schindler saved more than 1000 Jews from the Holocaust. Photo: AAP

Visit the original Schindler factory

Oskar Schindler was a Nazi businessman who saved 1200 Jews from the death camps by putting them on a list of essential workers for his enamel factory in Kraków.

It’s a story made world-famous by Steven Spielberg’s film Schindler’s List. You can learn more at the former factory that now houses an immersive exhibition dedicated to the life of the ghetto’s inhabitants during the Nazi occupation of Kraków. The reconstruction of Schindler’s office and the ghetto’s streets, the soundtrack and archive images create a moving experience.

Admire masterpieces

In the heart of the historic centre, the Princes Czartoryski Museum holds a rich collection of art and artefacts, including masterpieces by European painters. Here you can admire Rembrandt’s Landscape with the Good Samaritan, a Madonna and Child by Catena, and works by Brueghel the Younger and Cranach.

More time?

Zakopane At the foot of the Tatra Mountains, Zakopane is a popular mountain resort for skiers and hikers. In the 19th century, its beautiful houses and traditional wooden churches attracted numerous Polish and European artists to holiday here. A funicular in the town takes you to the top of Gubałówka mountain (1120 metres) in just a few minutes, from where the views are spectacular.

Cooking pierogies If you’re a fan of these delicious traditional Polish dumplings, sign up for a cooking class and learn how to make them yourself. You’ll find more information at the Kraków tourist office.

The Krakow Dragon

Legend has it that in the Middle Ages a terrible dragon terrorised
Kraków. Numerous knights tried in vain to defeat it, before a simple cobbler managed to kill the beast by trickery. After stuffing a calfskin with sulphur, he left the bait in front of the dragon’s lair. The voracious monster fell for the trick, burnt its his throat devouring the calfskin, and drank so much water from the Vistula River to soothe the burns from the sulphur that it died. As a reminder, a sculpture of the dragon, spitting fire every five minutes, has been placed in a cave beneath the castle hill.

Practicalities

How to get there and around There are direct flights from several European countries to Kraków. Buses for Auschwitz camp leave from the MDA bus station (Oświęcim Muzeum stop; one hour, 30 minutes).
Where to stay and eat Two top sleeping options are the Leonardo Boutique Hotel near the castle and the PURO Krakow Kazimierz in Kazimierz. For a bite to eat, try pierogies from Pierogarnia, grilled meats and gourmet plates from Ed Red, or traditional sandwiches from Andrus Food Truck.

Events

In June, crowds follow the Lajkonik Procession in tribute to the heroic boaters who repelled the Tatars in the 13th century.

The Wianki Festival is a lively affair held in June, with sound and light shows on castle hill, wreaths thrown into the Vistula and concerts. In December, a Christmas market and nativity- scene competition enliven Market Square.

This is an extract from Lonely Planet’s 100 Weekends in Europe. $44.99 RRP. Contact shop.lonelyplanet.com