Swayambhunath is alive with colour. After climbing the 365 steps – one for every day of the year – leading to the World Heritage-listed religious complex, the view over the Kathmandu Valley is incredible.
Prayer flags representing earth, water, air, fire and sky flutter, as families visiting from as far afield as Tibet and India pay their respects, high above the city below.
Meanwhile, cheeky macaques hop along the stairways and religious edifices as if they own the place, hence the site’s nickname: The Monkey Temple.
Swayambhunath is one of a staggering seven World Heritage sites in the Kathmandu Valley – more than most entire countries can boast. Yet, many people view the area as simply the gateway to trekking in the Himalayan mountains (not least thanks to the adventure clothing brand named after the Nepalese capital).
For those who aren’t interested in climbing Everest or trekking to base camp, is there really any point to visiting Kathmandu?
In short: Absolutely.
After two trips to India, I expected constant noise, traffic, people everywhere; but Kathmandu feels more mellow, its chaos more organised. Arriving into the airport late at night, it took just 15 minutes, driving along eerily quiet city streets, to reach my base, the Dwarikas Hotel.
Its story goes back to the 1950s when Nepal’s first hotelier, Dwarika Das Shrestha, witnessed ancient carvings being discarded for firewood, and replaced with modern building materials. He began collecting it and, later, with the help of skilled craftsmen, repurposed it in building the hotel, which opened in 1977, on the site of an old cow shed.
Today, thanks to his vision, Dwarikas is an 80-room hotel that immerses guests in Newari heritage, its architecture reflective of this region’s indigenous people, creators of the valley’s ancient civilisation. There are intricate facades, pillars, window frames, decorative brickwork and countless ornamental features, including a pool based on royal baths, complete with five ornate waterspouts.
Swayambhunath is home to centuries of history – and plenty of monkeys. Photo: Getty
Kathmandu renaissance
“We’re the originators of the architecture of the whole Asian region,” says Vijay Shrestha Einhaus, grandson of the original owner of Dwarikas. “And our heritage is not just a thing that is sitting there, it’s very alive and used by local people all the time for worship and ceremonies.”
A young Nepali man who grew up in Germany, Einhaus is back in Kathmandu to help manage two family-owned hotels and be part of the city’s resurgence.
The renaissance was symbolised by the election two years ago of Balen Shah as mayor of Kathmandu. A former rapper, the 35-year-old leader rose to prominence with the promise to “save, preserve, reinvigorate” Newari culture. Some have even christened Kathmandu “Balen City”, in acknowledgement of the rekindled cultural pride here since his election.
On my first morning, I join Rajesh Baidya from Kathmandu Travels and Tours to climb those 365 steps to visit the first of the World Heritage-listed sites.
While Nepal is 81 per cent Hindu, it’s also the birthplace of Buddha, and what’s remarkable at Swayambhunath, is its importance to both, and the harmonious relationship between the two. Ancient Buddhist monuments stand side by side with Hindu shrines, making it a place of pilgrimage for both faiths.
From there, we head down the road to bustling Thamel, with its cafes, bars, bookshops and yoga centres such as Yoga@Thamel, which has daily classes. It’s a great spot for a bite to eat, whether you feel like a spicy North Indian curry at Third Eye, Korean barbecue in a nearby courtyard at Hankook Sarang, or excellent vegetarian fare at Forest & Plate, on Mandala Street.
It is well worth visiting Kathmandu’s nearby bazaars too, where markets, full of sweets, spices and Himalayan salt, thrive among crowded alleyways, temples and shrines. You’ll find everything for sale here from Buddhist prayer flags and Newari fabrics to Nepalese snacks such as momos – delicious dumplings filled with meat, fish or veggies.
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Even more heritage to see
Next day, my tour with Rajesh continues, taking in three more World Heritage sites.
We begin in the centre, at Durbar Square, a labyrinth of royal palaces, temples, courtyards and shrines, which originates in the fourth century, and is full of the most intricate carving I’ve seen anywhere.
Among the most striking sights is the fierce mask of Seto, inside the grand Hanuman Dhoka palace, the deity’s wild eyes staring out of a gold-embossed face above a fanged grimace.
We move on next to Patan, across the Bagmati River, which once challenged Kathmandu as a mighty mediaeval centre. It has more than 1000 Buddhist monuments, as well as 14th-century temples, palaces, courtyards and royal baths.
Everywhere we go, it’s remarkable how ancient monuments are in constant use by Nepalese people for personal rituals like offerings and prayers. At the Kumbheshwar Temple, I watch as one mother presents her baby boy, dressed in a bright red jacket and matching head scarf with gold braiding, for the god Shiva’s blessing, and nearby, two older sisters, in saris, dance, in gratitude, in front of a Hindu shrine.
We end the day at the huge Boudhanath stupa, in Kathmandu’s eastern quarter, Boudha. This is Nepal’s most important Buddhist monument, founded over 1500 years ago and is one of the world’s largest, reaching 100 metres across and 40 metres high. It is said to contain the remains of the ancient Buddha Kassapa.
With its massive white dome, golden tower and streams of prayer flags, it’s undeniably impressive.
Bhaktapur
To end my trip, I’m booked into Dwarikas Resort, near Dhulikhel, on the fringes of the Kathmandu Valley.
On the way, we stop at another World Heritage site, and third mediaeval powerhouse, Bhaktapur, just outside Kathmandu.
Bhaktapur originates in the 12th century and retains the feel of an ancient Newari town, with quiet backstreets leading to three massive squares and numerous temples, including Nepal’s tallest – Nyatapola, reaching up 30 metres – that have survived multiple earthquakes.
Intriguing animal statues and carvings are dotted around, including erotic representations of everything from camels and elephants to armadillos in the Shiva temple.
Bhaktapur is also the place to shop for souvenirs, like the ceramics it is famed for – Potter’s Square here is full of clay objects glazing in the open air – and to taste juju dhau, a sweet and spicy yoghurt blended from buffalo and cow milk. Not for nothing is this known as the “King of Curds”, as I find out when trying this creamy concoction, with cardamon, at a simple wooden-fronted yoghurt shop called Kulfi Sansar.
The Hindu festival of Gathemangal in bustling Bhaktapur. Photo: Getty
Spiritual dimension
Back in the 1970s, Kathmandu was popular with hippies seeking enlightenment, and even has a central thoroughfare, near Durbar Square, named Freak Street, in their honour.
With Hinduism and Buddhism co-existing here for centuries, Kathmandu Valley retains a strong spiritual pull. It’s this dimension that I explore in my final three days, at Dwarikas Resort.
With its spa village, yoga hall, meditation maze, on-site Ayurvedic doctor and restaurants featuring delicious, healthy food sourced from its own organic farms, this 10-hectare resort, set on a hillside, is perfectly equipped for my wellness workout.
I begin each day with Hatha yoga, led by enviably supple teacher Ganesh, who also takes me through a chakra meditation in which I invite a range of colours “down from the firmament” to cleanse me. As I visualise rich hues of orange, green and blue washing over me, it feels surprisingly energising.
During a consultation with Ayurvedic Doctor Sanju Majakoti, I’m recommended a duet of cooling greens like spinach and kale to balance my pitta (fire and water) body type.
In between times, I am taken to other realms by two Ayurvedic massage treatments and a singing bowl meditation, in which I lie down and tune in to harmonious sounds emanating from the front of the room.
Of all the experiences, I find myself most moved by a Hindu blessing performed on my final evening by priest, Rajesh Badal, at the meditation maze above the resort.
The ceremony begins with offerings to three Hindu gods, before I’m handed a bowl containing a piece of fabric that has been set alight. I slowly carry it through the maze, as Rajesh follows behind, blowing into a conch and tupping a small drum.
It’s a deeply touching experience that connects me to Kathmandu’s indelible spirit and caps a memorable five days in this astonishingly rich and colourful region.
The writer was a guest of Dwarikas