Cast your mind over the world’s famous train journeys – Eurostar, the Orient Express or The Ghan – and travelling the US by rail may not immediately spring to mind.
But given how close many of the US capitals are to each other, particularly on the bustling east coast, Amtrak is actually a great option for getting between them.
One thing’s for sure: After the 26-hour flight from Melbourne, it’s a relief not to have to think about navigating airports again for a while.
Train travel is also a great way to maximise our time – which feels important, as this is my first time flexing the travel muscles on a big trip, after a decade-long hiatus.
Braving nerves and some anxiety about leaving two kids on the other side of the world, I want to make every moment count.
So, how much can we see in six days? We’re about to find out.
Destination 1: Boston
From America’s oldest restaurant (featuring “the Kennedy Booth”) to Harvard University, political history and famous TV locations, Boston is the perfect introduction to the US.
Even better, this city is perfect to explore on foot – taking second place in Conde Nast Traveler‘s “most walkable cities in the US” guide for 2024.
With Boston Common as your central navigation point, all the must-dos are within easy walking distance.
Unexpected but also on the must-do list is a Boston Red Sox game at Fenway Park.
I’m not well-versed in baseball but it doesn’t matter; with Budweiser in hand and the smell of hot dogs in the air, this is perhaps one of the most American experiences a first-timer can have.
Boston Red Sox play Tampa Bay Rays at Fenway Park. Photo: Getty
Must see and do
- A historic walking tour. Walk into History tours depart daily on the hour
- Explore downtown and Seaport area near Faneuil Hall Marketplace
- Eat at Union Oyster House – America’s oldest restaurant
- Trademark Tour of Harvard led by current Harvard and MIT students
- Cheers Beacon Hill, which – as the Bull & Finch Pub – inspired the hit TV show.
See the US east coast while travelling between capital cities via Amtrak. Image: TND/Google Earth
Where to stay
Located close to the Amtrak station and an easy five-minute stroll from Boston Common, the Hyatt Regency is perfectly positioned for exploring.
Moving on
The Amtrak station in Boston is just an eight-minute walk from the hotel, but as it’s my first time, I give myself a bit longer.
I needn’t have worried. The station is well signposted and has a staffed information desk and helpful American service.
Fifteen minutes before departure, there’s a boarding call. I follow the orderly crowds of people to platform six, board a coach-class carriage at random, find a non-allocated seat and hoist my bag onto the luggage racks above. I settle into plush leather seats, which have plenty of leg room, tray tables and charging stations.
There’s nothing fancy about it, but it’s clean and comfortable. After we depart, the slightly rackety rocking lulls me into a jet-lag nap – this is my longest journey, six hours to recharge ready for Philadelphia.
Reading Terminal Market has more than 75 diverse eating options. Photo: Getty
Destination 2: Philadelphia
Philly’s grand Art Deco-inspired station is easy to navigate despite its size and, within 25 minutes of arrival, I’m staring up at City Hall, an impossibly large, white marble and limestone building next door to my hotel.
The walk is the perfect way to meet Philly, aka “the city of brotherly love”, which is colourful, noisy and has so much heart and soul. But this place is big, so don’t be afraid to use Big Bus to lighten the load.
It’s immediately clear this city is more eclectic and gritty than Boston. A pre-booked early dinner at Parc in the chic neighbourhood of Rittenhouse shows me this city has cool sorted.
Making my hours count, the Philly by Night tour covers notable attractions, and I get my boxing pose photo standing on the movie-famous Rocky Steps.
The next morning, an early breakfast at Reading Terminal Market is essential, followed by Founding Footsteps’ Old City Historic Walking Tour.
It’s perfect for short-on-time visitors and, building on my Boston intro, my storytelling guide covers the historic moments in American history. It includes a wander down Elfreth’s Alley, the nation’s oldest continuously inhabited residential street … where Amazon packages sit on doorsteps that have been there since 1713.
Must see and do
- Love Park and Dilworth Park
- Liberty Bell
- Eat a Philly Cheesesteak at Campo’s
- Book ahead for exceptional restaurants such as Parc and Giuseppe & Sons.
Where to stay
It’s easy to explore Philadelphia from the Notary Hotel’s prime city-centre location.
Reading Terminal Market is just around the corner (so close, I ate there three times in 48 hours).
The Lincoln Memorial, Washington Monument, and US Capitol Building. Photo: Getty
Destination 3: Washington, DC
Feeling full of life, I board the train for the two-hour trip to Washington, DC.
It takes third place on Traveler‘s walkable cities guide. But for the traveller who wants to fully appreciate the US capital, it’s worth allowing some Uber budget to get around.
An Uber it is from Union Station to my hotel, where it’s immediately clear I’ve left behind the grit and noise. DC greets me with some spectacular, pristine views and obvious wealth.
A sunset tour delivers the city’s top landmarks beautifully lit. It’s a pinch-myself moment as I take in the Lincoln Memorial, the White House and the US Capitol Building.
Our guide’s explanation of the Smithsonian museums’ purpose – to increase and diffuse knowledge – sticks with me in the days after as I make my way to some of the 21 museums.
The sight of Neil Armstrong’s space suit at the National Air and Space Museum leaves me buzzing with excitement. The museums overdeliver – I leave feeling enriched with worldly knowledge.
Perhaps less obvious, but with more than 117 restaurants listed in the current Michelin Guide, DC’s foodie scene is a must. Cranes, with the approachable and talented Pepe Moncayo at the helm, exceeded my expectations of what it’s like to dine on dishes that taste as beautiful as they look.
Must see and do
- National Gallery of Art – Sculpture Garden
- Water taxi to Georgetown for the afternoon
- Research and book (free entry) Smithsonian museums
- The International Spy Museum
- The Wharf restaurants and dine at Philippe Chow.
Where to stay
Make the most of every minute in this phenomenal city with waterfront views of DC from your room or rooftop at the InterContinental Washington DC The Wharf.
So short on time, so much to fit in.
Two days in DC has filled my knowledge cup so much it’s spilling over. I leave wanting more time to take it all in and pledging to return with my kids.
Three cities in six days, yes jam-packed but it feels like I’ve experienced the very best degustation menu of the US East Coast.
So book your train tickets, lace up your sneakers and hit the East Coast US. If not now, when?
Source: Instagram/Amtrak
US train travel tips
- Plan and book ahead, download the Amtrak app for easy management
- Hotel location is key. Ask for early or late checkouts, depending on your schedule
- Where budget allows, book a higher class so you have a reserved seat
- Amtrak Acela is pitched as more premium; it doesn’t look better but it is a faster, direct service and the best option for those short on time
- Pack light – and wheel-able cases are a must. Check luggage requirements across your flight to train schedule
- Arrive half an hour ahead of your departure
- Ask, ask and confirm again you’re at the right station, platform and getting on the right train.
The writer travelled courtesy of Delta Airlines, Meet Boston, Philadelphia Convention & Visitors Bureau and Destination DC
Delta Airlines departs Sydney or Brisbane. Multi-city fares allow you to fly into Boston and out of Washington, DC