Greece has plenty to offer those who don’t rush. Being quite laid-back myself, it’s this sense of time stretching out that I appreciate most here.

In the past, I’ve spent several months in Greece, and I’m delighted to be returning there in a van with José, my best co-driver. Arriving from Albania, the plan is to follow the west coast of the country to the south of the Peloponnese. We already know that we’re going to be treating both our taste buds and our eyes.

Facing the island of Corfu, Igoumenitsa welcomes us. There’s nothing exceptional about this port, apart from its seaside appeal, but we enjoy the fresh air as we stroll along the waterfront.

We sit down in one of the many bars and sip the first frappé (iconic iced coffee) of many, before really embarking on our adventure. For 135 kilometres, it’s winding coastal roads to the island of Lefkada, accessed across a causeway. We take care to drive slowly, because in addition to the viewpoints that draw our attention, dogs, cows and a host of careless drivers escort us.

Touring Greece’s west coast. Source: Lonely Planet

We take advantage of our visit to Lefkada Town, the capital of the island, to replenish our water supplies, as we’re running low – we only carry two small cans so regularly have to find water fountains, although this is never a problem. We also do some shopping and buy tyropita (cheese puff pastries), dolmadakia (vine leaves stuffed with rice) and other delicacies.

The town’s colourful buildings are pretty enough, but it’s the lagoon that really gets our attention: A colony of pink flamingos is parading
in front of us. Busy fishing or sleeping on one leg, the birds are still, silent and graceful. The rest of the island features steep cliffs, clear waters lapping sandy beaches and traditional coastal villages. The place is idyllic.

Gina, a Greek friend, is waiting for us in Patras, so we keep heading due south for 175 kilometres to make our rendezvous, threading our way along a cordon of tarmac, with the mountains stretching to the edge of the asphalt on one side, and the Ionian Sea stretching endlessly away on the other.

We’re delighted to cross the Rion-Antirion cable-stayed bridge, an earthquake-resistant engineering marvel linking mainland Greece to the vast Peloponnese Peninsula, which heralds our arrival in Patras.

The engineering marvel that is the Rion-Antirion bridge. Photo: Pexels.com

I really like the atmosphere of this student city, where I’ve already
stayed several times. It has a large port, from which ferries set sail for Italy, but to enjoy the best view over the Gulf of Patras, it’s best to climb up to the ruined castle, whose centuries-old stones have watched over the turquoise water since the sixth century.

The staircase along Agiou Nikolaou street leading to the fortress is a must for visitors. In the evening, young people gather here for a drink, admiring the most beautiful sunset imaginable. My two companions and I do the same.

Gina then invites us to stay with her family in the small village of Kardamas, near Amaliada. We welcome her aboard the van and continue our slow progress southwards along the E55. With three of us up front, it’s a bit cramped, which leads to a few acrobatics – the Transporter T4 model is all-purpose but not very roomy, but I’d gone for freedom of movement to comfort, a personal choice that I’ve never regretted.

Gina’s parents, whom I know well, pull out all the stops to celebrate our reunion. The menu for the lunch we’re welcomed with is the fruit of their labour: Homemade bread toasted in the fireplace, feta cheese made from their sheep’s milk, olives harvested from the garden and wine pressed by hand – a meal both simple and royal.

To stretch our legs, we then head for Kourouta Beach, a popular spot for locals, packed with bars and restaurants. Naturally, we order large frappés and drink them on the terrace. The beach may be trendy, but there’s an air of serenity as soon as you step onto the fine sand, away from the bars.

Much as we’d like to linger, time waits for no van and we need to push on. We warmly embrace Gina and her parents, thank them for their hospitality and leave laden with gifts: Olive oil and bags of oranges.

Home time at Messinia Bay, on the Peloponnese Peninsula. Photo: Unsplash

Route 9 takes us ever further south, in glorious sunshine, and we feel like we’re on a route designed just for holiday-making, lined entirely with olive trees. There are also multiple opportunities to pull over at various beaches: Greece is a country where it’s very easy to travel with a converted vehicle – there are few parking restrictions and most locals look on vanlifers kindly.

Some 170 kilometres from Kardamas, we reach Koroni, one of the most beautiful towns in the Peloponnese. The marina has a wonderful promenade, and under an electric blue sky speckled with cotton clouds, pleasure boats are reflected on the still surface of the water.

Climbing up to the edge of the castle is the best way to fully appreciate the magic of the setting. From the top of the cliff, the ancient fortress extends its sprawling ramparts across the Gulf of Messenia, and several viewpoints allow you to gaze down onto azure coves.

Beside the castle, a monastery crowned with white domes dominates the bay, and a few neatly arranged tombs are lined up below. A perfect place to rest in peace for eternity.

This is an extract from Lonely Planet’s Epic Van Trips of Europe. $55 RRP. Contact shop.lonelyplanet.com