From Europe to Asia, with centuries of history to explore


The magnificent Haga Sofia dominates Istanbul's skyline from the Bosphorus. Photo: Getty/Lonely Planet
The only city in the world that straddles two continents, İstanbul, is a place of compelling contrasts, where incessant traffic and buzzing markets are juxtaposed with peaceful tea gardens and resplendent mosques.
And with centuries of historic remains scattered amid its modern streets, İstanbul is a museum unto itself.
Spending just a weekend here will barely scratch the surface, but you can get a fine flavour of İstanbul in a few short days. Kick off with headline sights such as Topkapi Palace, the lavish former home of the Ottoman sultans, replete with brilliantly coloured tiles and gleaming marble, and designated a museum in its entirety.
But beyond its big-ticket destinations, İstanbul is a place to simply enjoy the whirlwind of its daily life, from the crowds in its centuries-old markets to the back-and-forth of boats ferrying passengers between its European and Asian shores.
It can be overwhelming and exciting in equal measure – so take time to sit back and enjoy quieter pleasures, such as the fantastic cuisine, from köfte meatballs and meze to fresh-caught fish. Savour teas and Turkish-style coffees along with sweet treats like baklava or the very best lokum (Turkish delight) you will ever taste.

Tea is serious business in Istanbul – and a must-try while there. Photo: Lonely Planet
Marvel at Istanbul’s mosques
Among İstanbul’s 3000-odd mosques, there are three that you absolutely must not miss. An unsurpassed masterpiece of Byzantine art, the Aya Sofya was consecrated as the Hagia Sophia church in 537 CE and transformed into a mosque nine centuries later; it became a museum in 1935, and was reconverted into a working mosque in 2020.
With its cascading domes and multiple minarets, its immediate neighbour, the Blue Mosque is, if possible, even more stunning.
Head to the bazaar district to take in the third of the trio: The Süleymaniye Mosque, perched on one of İstanbul’s seven hills and providing a landmark for the entire city.
Soak up the city’s hammams
Visiting one of the city’s venerable hammams is an essential activity in İstanbul; cover yourself with a pestemal (bath sheet) before entering the hararet (steam room), where you can be washed, scrubbed and massaged.
Head to the breathtaking 16th-century surrounds of the Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamam (kilicalipasahamami.com), or the lavish Cağaloğlu Hamamı (cagalogluhamami.com.tr).
Cross the Bosphorus
Hop on a ferry or cross one of the three bridges that span the Bosphorus Strait, the wide waterway that bisects the city and also serves as its main artery, linking the Sea of Marmara to the Black Sea.
Overlooking the water are a series of grand mansions known as yali (inset), built on the banks of the Bosphorous by the well-to-do since the 18th century. But even these are eclipsed by the waterside palaces of Dolmabahçe, the last residence of the sultans; and Beylerbeyi, with its marble bathing pavilions (one for the men, one for the harem).
Dive in to the city’s bargain bazaars
İstanbul is a feast for the senses, and nowhere is this more evident than in the city’s marvellous markets. The vibrant colours of the Spice Bazaar, near the Eminönü waterfront, are a firework display for the eyes – and the lokum (Turkish delight) is a temptation for your palate.
Head for Beyoğlu’s Fish Market to take in colourful displays of fresh produce as well as meat and fish, or haggle for bargains at the city’s vast, chaotic and fascinating Grand Bazaar.
More time?
Asian Shore Take a ferry to spend a day on the city’s Asian Shore, browsing the Kadıköy Market in the morning, and devoting the afternoon at the splendid imperial mosques of Üsküdar.
Princes Islands Discover a slice of old İstanbul by boarding a ferry to Büyükada, the largest of the nine Princes Islands. Located
20 kilometres south-east of the city on the Sea of Marmara, and with motorised vehicles prohibited, it’s a hugely popular escape for city-dwellers in the summer (go in the off-season if you can).
Time for tea
Keyif is the Turkish art of relaxation with intent, and there’s no better place to get a sense of what these moments of idle pleasure consist of than İstanbul’s çay bahçesi (tea gardens), where the city’s residents settle in for long sessions of drinking tea, smoking hookah, chatting and playing games.
The waterfront çay bahçesi are some of İstanbul’s most atmospheric: Try Moda Aile Çay Bahçesi in Kadıköy, with its view of the Sea of Marmara and the minarets of Old İstanbul; or Dolmabahçe Çay Bahçesi at the Dolmabahçe Palace.
Practicalities
When to go April to May and September to October are the best time to visit İstanbul, without the excessive heat of summer or the biting cold of winter; these are also the periods with the most festivals.
How to get there İstanbul New International Airport has flights from across Europe and the rest of the world, and is connected to the centre by metro trains.
Where to stay İstanbul’s districts are cities in themselves, with extremely varied accommodation options and prices; however, the bulk of the options are in Sultanahmet and Beyoğlu.
This is an extract from Lonely Planet’s 100 Weekends in Europe. $44.99 RRP. Contact shop.lonelyplanet.com