Surrounded by mountains in the heart of the Balkans, Sofia’s strategic location made it a focus for invasion over the centuries, resulting in a mix of civilisations bringing their cultural influences, creating the city we see today.

In the Bulgarian capital’s centre, St George’s Rotunda Church sums up this eventful history. Built in the 4th century on the site of Roman baths, it’s been used as a Catholic church, a mosque and an Orthodox church.

The nearby remains of a Roman amphitheatre recall the time when Sofia was a popular holiday resort for emperors, while the Banya Bashi Mosque is a reminder of Ottoman rule.

Elsewhere, Aleksander Nevski Cathedral, with its green and gold bulbs; St Nicholas’ Church and its constellation of gold-leaf mosaics; and the flamboyantly-styled National Theatre stem from the Tsarist era.

More austere, the buildings of the Largo were constructed in the Stalinist style favoured by the Soviets. The final piece of the history puzzle is the National Palace of Culture, a neosocialist behemoth that required more steel than the Eiffel Tower.

Life in Soviet times

To see what daily life was like for a Bulgarian family in the 1980s, visit the Red Flat museum. Equipped with an audio guide, you can walk from room to room in this time-warp apartment where objects and anecdotes help you better understand the way locals lived at the end of the communist era. Open drawers, leaf through photo albums, try on clothes – make yourself at home.

Tickets can be purchased next door at the Gifted Urban Art & Culture Hub.

Peruse the treasures of Boyana

A 25-minute cab ride from the centre of Sofia, Boyana Church contains some of the finest remains of mediaeval art in Eastern
Europe. The wall frescoes here are masterpieces of Byzantine pictorial art; the expressive features and harmonious proportions hinting at the later Italian Renaissance.

Just north, the National Museum of History is a must for more historical insights, with its solid gold Thracian collection and the Rogozen Treasure: 20 kilograms of silver coins dating from the 5th to 4th centuries BCE.

 

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Wander the city’s parks

Leafy trees, dappled paths and the scent of roses and wisteria – Sofia’s parks are a delight. Discover the statues of the Royal Garden, which borders the National Gallery. Mingle with the chessplayers in the Municipal Garden, opposite the Ivan Vazov National Theatre.

At the foot of the old thermal baths, relax in front of the flowerbeds and let the sound of the fountains relax you. Then finish your tour in Borisova Gradina Park, a favourite of Sofians.

Fresh air on Mount Vitosha

Often capped by snow, Mount Vitosha towers 2290 metres above Sofia. In just an hour you can leave behind the hustle and bustle of the capital and find yourself in the mountains, surrounded by fir trees.

The ski resort of Aleko here is the starting point for a lovely hike to Cherni Vrah peak, where a sublime view of the city is your reward (two-hour round trip). To get there, get off at Vitosha metro station and take bus 66 or a cab to the Simeonovo cable car in Sofia’s southern suburbs.

More time?

Lake Pancharevo This lake, 16 kilometres from the capital, is a popular resort for Sofians who can enjoy a wide range of watersports here. Take the metro from Serdika to Tsarigradsko Shose, then the 1K bus to Banyata Pancharevo.

Rila The Rila Mountains, 120 kilometres south of Sofia, are home to a stunning namesake monastery, decorated with sublime wood paintings. While here, take the opportunity to hike into the mountains and discover the Seven Rila Lakes, the result of
glacial erosion.

Babreka, one of seven lakes in the Rila Mountains. Photo: AAP

Bulgarian yoghurt

What’s the secret of ever-popular Bulgarian yoghurt? At the beginning of the 20th century, studies were carried out to explain the exceptional longevity, for the time, of the Bulgarian people.

The result of the studies showed a link between long life and the high consumption of local yoghurt. Bulgarian Stamen Grigorov unlocked the secret of this magical dairy product – Lactobacillus
Bulgaricus, a bacterium that enables fermentation and, as a probiotic, acts on the intestinal flora by slowing down the decay that causes ageing.

Practicalities

How to get there: Low-cost, direct flights connect many European cities with Sofia.

Where to stay and eat: Avoid the many slightly old-fashioned options and book the nicely decorated and very central R34 Boutique Hotel or opt for the quieter setting of the Rosslyn Central Park, opposite the National Palace of Culture.

The traditional food served at the Hadjidragan tavern will leave you with fond memories, as will the dishes at Cosmos and the tapas at CAVA. At Made in Blue you can enjoy your meal inside surrounded by quirky decor or outside on the pretty terrace.

This is an extract from Lonely Planet’s 100 Weekends in Europe. $44.99 RRP. Contact shop.lonelyplanet.com