Los Angeles is vast and sprawling, criss-crossed by a tangle of freeways and often hideous traffic jams. And yet … it’s a fabulous city, especially if you tackle it in small bites.

Just 48 hours in West Hollywood (WeHo, for those in the know) is enough to re-group after a transatlantic flight, do some celeb-spotting, chill by the pool, dine well and catch a show, all while avoiding endless time on the 405 freeway.

But first … coffee

Coffee in LA is now seriously a thing. The Butcher, the Baker the Cappuccino Maker, on Sunset Boulevard, is a French-inspired world of striped-and-fringed sun brollies, marble-top tables and gnarled olive trees. Excellent pastries, generous salads, indulgent pastries and good people-watching.

Less showy, more cool is Verve, on Melrose – single-origin coffees, matcha lattes, minimalist design, outside courtyard, and I think everyone is working on a film script!

A little shopping (or just looking)

See how the well-heeled shop at Melrose Place. This tranquil, chic little quarter boasts precision-clipped hedges, bow-tied parking valets, and boutiques such as Zimmerman, Chloé, Gucci, The Row and Oscar de la Renta. Coffee stop? Alfred’s.

 

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The Design District

The angular blue, red and green buildings that are the Pacific Design Centre look spectacular though they are more for the design industry. Instead, pop into Dacha for its interior style, or see a photo exhibition at the Leica Gallery.

For lunch, head to Urth Caffe Melrose with its flotilla of green sun brollies and crowded tables, and order up an organic coffee, a salad-stuffed panini, or a calorie-packed sweet treat. Urth is surprisingly good for celeb-spotting – luxury vehicles pull in to be valet parked while the owners grab a latte.

Stroll across to high-end homewares store R.H. Vintage and head to the rooftop garden with its twisted olive trees, pebble paths, life-size copy of the Louvre’s Winged Victory, huge outdoor sofas and Design District views. It’s free and it’s fabulous.

The glow-up

Oxygen facials, ice baths, IV drips and 24-carat gold ear-seeding – LA has it all. But time is short, so maybe just check in to FaceGym for an incredible facial ‘workout’ (aka massage). The salon is right on Sunset Strip.

Dining LA style

Gracias Madre is an ode to Mexico with its romantic courtyard – lanterns, open fire, olive trees and a light-flooded interior rich with colourful tiling. Local, organic, house-made food – spicy empanadas, mushroom quesadillas, chipotle fries, perfect margaritas. You’d never guess it’s vegan.

Oz-owned Great White in Melrose Place is constantly abuzz for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The façade is Tuscan pink and leafy, the food is SoCal with a flourish of Oz flavours. Masterful cocktails – and they even serve pavlova.

Or go old-school Italian at Cecconi’s. Not exactly bargain-priced but it’s a classic – everything from lobster to wood-fired pizza and delicate cicchetti (Venetian tapas) with a northern Italian twist. It’s a long-term favourite with powerbrokers, wannabe actors and even the real thing! Be sure to wear your sunnies.

Coffee at Cecconi’s? Old-school and cool. Photo: Margaret Barca

Check out Sunset Strip

Fact: Sunset Boulevard is 38 kilometres long. Sunset Strip is the 2.7-kilometre stretch that winds through West Hollywood. Take a wander to feel the vibe. Maybe get a shake and a burger at Mel’s Drive-In, a classic diner. Check out Book Soup, one of LA’s best bookstores. See the famous Comedy Store, LA’s stand-up comedy mecca – maybe even get last-minute tickets. Or for a memorable splurge, a martini at the Sunset Tower Bar.

Music maestros

Catch a show at the famed Troubadour. This venue helped launch the careers of people such as Elton John, Tom Waits, Bob Dylan and Kris Kristofferson. It’s an intimate space and tickets are often just $US25-$30 ($A40-48).

Where to stay

WeHo has a smorgasbord of excellent hotels.

About 45 minutes from LA airport by Uber, we unload at the Sunset Marquis, just off Sunset Boulevard. Renowned for its legendary Nightbird Recording studio, it’s been home to rock’n’roll royalty for decades. Cavatina restaurant is open all day, though the health breakfasts, such as fruity acai bowls and skinny burritos with spicy tofu, kickstart the day in true LA style. The moody 1200 Bar is for late-night drinks, there’s a top-notch spa (essential in Hollywood) and a gym. What we love most is the lush, sub-tropical garden. It’s quite the hideaway.

If that’s not your style, the elegant Chamberlain on a peaceful, tree-lined street, has a fab rooftop pool. The design-centric boutique Kimpton La Peer has a glam see-and-be-seen bar as well as a rooftop pickle ball court (fun and very LA).

For modern Hollywood glamour, the Martin Brudnizki-designed Pendry brims with luxurious style, or consider the uber-chic Edition (though you might never want to leave – it’s stunning). Another option, the fabled art deco Sunset Tower Hotel defines classic Hollywood glamour. Join LA-ladies-who-lunch, dealmakers and the occasional celeb at the rooftop bistro (and take in the sweeping city views).

At the Mondrian, the lobby feels a little Alice in Wonderland, while rooms are arty, and Skybar serves cocktails with glittering vistas. For something more hipster, Hotel Ziggy on Sunset is the go.

The writer was a guest of Sunset Marquis, The Chamberlain and Visit West Hollywood