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15 things Rome taught me

Roma, it’ll grab you by the heart and hold on tight, a city of maximalism and masterpieces, charisma and chaos. It runs nonstop at full tilt, unless it’s time for a three-course lunch. Here are 15 things I learnt when in Rome.

Oct 26, 2019, updated Oct 26, 2019
1/15Garlic is an anticoagulant. Ancient Roman soldiers would rub it on their swords so their opponents would bleed to death, whereas gladiators (who fought for sport), would souse their swords in vinegar and lemon juice to keep their opponents’ wounds from getting infected. Learnt at Gladiator School of Rome, a two-hour highlight and flat-out winner with kids.
2/15Aperitivo negronis are free pour!! Drinking three may seem like the most awesome idea you’ve ever had but … it isn’t.
3/15Romans are pasta perfectionists, known for three types only: Cacio e pepe, (cheese and pepper), with loads of freshly cracked black pepper and hard, salty pecorino cheese; amatriciana, a sauce of tomato sugo, guanciale (cured pork cheek) and pecorino; and carbonara, the pasta tossed with egg, guanciale or pancetta (pork belly salami) and parmesan or pecorino. Try them here: Cacio e Pepe, Via Giuseppe Avezzana, 11, Prati, the quintessential, no-frills, no-menu restaurants with chianti served in tumblers.
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4/15Smoking cigarettes as an official at the Rome Marathon, while the competitors jog past, is totally acceptable.
5/15"Footpath" is a very fluid concept. Mopeds and cars regularly mount the pavement at will, their drivers considering it a third lane. Watch your tootsies!
6/15The sound of ambulance sirens is as common as church bells.
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7/15Gaffa tape is a highly prized commodity used to secure mirrors sideswiped against ancient buildings.
8/15You haven't parked someone in if you can still fit a 10 euro note between two Fiats.
9/15Paying for early-bird tickets at the Sistine Chapel is totally worth it if you want to marvel at Michelangelo’s Renaissance masterpieces with fewer than 50 people.
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10/15You can never have too many sequins on a sneaker. Bedazzle, my friends! Bedazzle!
11/15Don’t be surprised if a Roman apologetically says, “I don’t speak English very well,” then proceeds to speak fluent English nonstop for the next 10 minutes without drawing breath.
12/15Rome’s majestic, crumbling, historic Colosseum is the hottest place in town, its capacity capped at 3000 people. Arrive early or come prepared for a wait.
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13/15Dubbed the “Michelangelo of pizza”, Gabriele Bonci is world-renowned for his take on pizza-by-the-slice, the thick, chewy base made from ancient spelt, with simple toppings such as salsiccia (sausage), zucchini, eggplant, and buffalo di mozzarella. Beloved by the late Anthony Bourdain, the slabs of pizzas land hot on the bench, before being scissor-cut and measured by weight. So good. Via Della Meloria 43, Rome. (There’s a Bonci in Chicago too if that’s closer.)
14/15Roman Uber drivers have some of the fanciest rides around; expect to be whizzed through the city in Mercs, Bimmers and Jaguars.
15/15Yeah, yeah, I know, Rome’s Trastevere district is touristy and over-rated but it’s still home to one of my all-time fave restaurants: Da Enzo, the sweetest little trattoria down a cobbled lane serving mind-blowingly, deliciously simple seasonal classics of pastas, zucchini with fresh ricotta, fried artichoke, and tiramisu.
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